Week 9: 1920s Week
This week, the sewing room was transported back to the glamour and innovation of the 1920s, with three challenges that sparkled with vintage flair. With the grand final just one step away, the pressure on the remaining four Bees has never been greater.
The Pattern Challenge kicked things off with plus fours, the quintessential 1920s garment for outdoor pursuits. Wide-legged yet tailored, they demanded careful precision, clever proportion, and, perhaps most crucially, the perfect fabric choice.
Next came the Transformation Challenge, where sport met style. Inspired by tennis legend René Lacoste, the Bees were given polo shirts to reimagine as striking, colour-blocked garments. It was a test of creativity, vision, and razor-sharp sewing.
Finally, the Made to Measure brought the decade’s iconic nightlife to life, as the sewist crafted party dresses worthy of the roaring twenties. From flapper glamour to bold modernist lines, the runway shimmered with movement, drama, and daring design.
With just four semi-finalists left, every detail counted, and for one sewist, this week would mark the end of their journey before the final.
The Pattern Challenge
All For Plus Fours!
Last week we were all swooning over the gorgeous wool jackets in the very first wool challenge, and what a treat it was! This week, we couldn’t help but think the bees would have really benefitted from a quick read of our blog, where we explored all the wonderful reasons to sew with, wear, and love wool. If you missed it, don’t worry, you can catch up here!
Both Esme and Patrick pointed out how much the weight of a wool fabric can influence the final look of a garment. It was fascinating to see that, even though every contestant worked from the same pattern, their results were completely different. Of course, that came down not just to their skills, but also to their fabric choices.
A lighter-weight wool, for example, would have been spot on for a piece designed with movement or sport in mind. It also makes sewing a little easier in bulkier areas like waistbands and leg cuffs, while pressing beautifully for a crisp, professional finish.
Comparing The Plus Fours and Weight of Fabrics
Orla's Lightweight Worsted Wool
Orla chose a lightweight worsted wool, inspired by her success with fabric selection in last week’s jacket challenge. And she absolutely nailed it! The finish of her garment was spot on, with the judges finding nothing to criticise.
Her clever choice of fabric really paid off because it was perfectly suited to the task, she could concentrate on the skills the pattern demanded, like inserting the zip fly, instead of wrestling with her fabric to get it under control.
Yasmin's Lightweight Checked Wool
Yasmin also went for a lightweight flannel wool, and it really worked in her favour. She admitted she’d never tried pattern matching before, but Esme didn’t mind one bit, the overall effect of her plus fours was fantastic.
In fact, it was better that she didn’t attempt a tricky match and risk it looking messy. Instead, by recognising her limits and focusing on what the pattern required, she nailed the challenge and came out on top.
Caz's Mediumweight Tweed
Caz opted for a medium-weight wool, which was heavier than the fabric used in the most successful pair of plus fours. The extra weight did have its advantages though, as it gave the pleats structure and allowed them to drape nicely. However, as Esme rightly pointed out, the finish would have been even better with a good press. Heavier fabrics often need more work to get pleats to sit flat, whereas lighter-weight wools tend to press more easily.
That said, Caz had more success with her fly than some of the others, even if there was a slight bump towards the top.
Kit's Mediumweight Herringbone
After all Kit’s previous success in the pattern challenges, it was a surprise to see them come last, and it was all down to fabric choice. It felt like Kit opted for style over substance, and unfortunately it didn't work out. A heavier fabric simply doesn’t work well for garments with lots of layers.
Because of the bulk, Kit had to adjust the leg buckle just to get the fabric through, and the pleats & pockets lacked the smooth, even finish we’d usually expect. Given Kit's skill level, their choice of fabric was surprising – and the judges were quick to point out that the overall construction had been compromised as a result.
Top Tip:
You may have spotted the contestants using wooden blocks on their garments after pressing, this handy tool is called a clapper. It’s simple but incredibly effective when working with wool. After pressing a seam, you place the clapper on top to apply pressure as the fabric cools, which essentially “sets” the seam in place. The result? Crisp edges and a beautifully polished finish, just what you want for tailored garments like trousers. If you sew with wool, it’s well worth adding one to your toolkit!
Transformation Challenge
From the tennis courts of the 1920s to the sewing room, this challenge was all about giving polo shirts a bold new lease of life. Inspired by René Lacoste, inventor of the polo shirt, the Bees had to transform them into modern colour-blocked garments, a task that required sharp cutting, a keen eye for balance, and a fearless use of contrast.
We saw a range of outcomes from this challenge, from Caz’s long asymmetrical dress, Yasmin's sporty top, to Kit’s cut-out dress influenced by Esmes' own designs (which inevitable won the vote of the judges for first place in the challenge) and our personal favourite Orlas swirly, flared sleeved top, using her go to technique of applique, you could see clearly there was alot of work that went into it during the 90 minute challenge as the judges also pointed out themselves.
At Fabworks, we love colour blocking for its ability to turn simple shapes into striking statements. Choosing fabrics with complementary weights and tones is key; mixing weights and fabric types can present you with some difficulty in the construction.
We have some fab collections of the same type of fabrics in an array of bright colours that would be perfect for any colour blocking challenge you decide to take on yourself.
Loving wools this week? Keep an eye out for our latest collection of our exclusive Heart of Huddersfield fabrics, coming very soon. Perfect for planning your Autumn makes!
Made To Measure Challenge
For the semi-final Made to Measure, the Bees were asked to step into the glitz and glamour of the roaring twenties, creating a party outfit worthy of the jazz age. Think flapper movement, decadent fabrics, and bold silhouettes, all with a modern twist to impress the judges.
This challenge really spotlighted the importance of fabric choice, once again. Yasmin took a clever approach by working in cotton, which offered more structure and was far easier to sew than the slippery chiffons and georgettes chosen by her fellow Bees. It was a smart move that let her focus on fit and finish rather than fighting the fabric. The others went all-in on lightweight, drapey cloths to capture the authentic 1920s feel, a bold decision that tested their patience and precision.
Top Tip for Lightweight Fabrics:
- Always stabilise before you sew.
- Use fine needles
- Have plenty of pins and clips on hand
- Consider a walking foot to help prevent puckering and slipping
- Never underestimate the power of a good press and steam
- Most importantly, a luxury we have that the sewists didn't have, give yourself time and have patience
What struck us most this week was just how tight the competition has become. Each Bee played to their strengths, and it was wonderful to see their individual styles shine through. At this stage, it feels impossible to predict who will take the trophy; every episode proves how unpredictable the Sewing Bee can be, with success resting on performance in the moment rather than past wins.
Sadly, this week we said goodbye to Kit. Having won the majority of challenges across the season, Kit has been a real joy to watch this season and a truly skilled sewist. They have displayed so much knowledge, from technical skill to design as well as pattern drafting, every week during the made-to-measure challenge!
But the semi-final pressure is immense, and with the standard so high, even the smallest slip can tip the balance. It was a tough farewell, and a reminder that in this competition, it all comes down to delivering on the day.
The winning strengths of each contestant:
Orla
She has shown great technical skill throughout the whole challenge, with many beautifully made garments, accompanied by some fantastic design moments like her creepy doll costume from Week 8 - Movie Week as a standout moment. Personally, her eye for the details will be what gets Orla the winning title this season; her beautiful appliqué details have been a gem throughout all her makes and her signature that elevates her look, just look at her Made To Measure for Week 4 - Korea Week!
Yasmin
She really played into her strength this week and recognised where her limits were, knowing herself well enough to not push herself to pattern match in challenge one and giving herself the extra length on the skirt in the made-to-measure, so she didn't accidentally make it too short. She took no risk, and it paid off this week. We have seen risk-taking eliminate multiple contestants this series, and if Yasmin continues with her careful and considered approach, she could sail through the finale!
Caz
Caz has impressed as a true all-rounder, but it’s in the Made To Measure where she really shines. Her garments stand out for clever design and a clear sense of personality. Highlights include her playful Dorothy dress in Week 3 and her unforgettable mini-me fashion designer costume in Week 6, packed with thoughtful details. Her strength lies in taking a brief and elevating it with individuality, if she leans into that in the final, she could well take the Sewing Bee trophy.
Who are you backing to win?
Let us know if you thought Kit was the right Bee to go and who will win this years Great British Sewing Bee?
If you enjoy our reflections on this episode (1920s Week - Episode 9) make sure to check back in next Wednesday at midday where we'll have a full rundown of Episode 10 - The Final
GBSB Week 9 - 1920's Week
Kommentarer
On reflection I didn’t think the sailors outfit fitted the brief which was outfit for a party! Tho Yes it was very special.
Images courtesy of BBC1 The Great British Sewing Bee